Napa and Sonoma: One Last Trip for Two (For Awhile)!

We spent a glorious day in Napa and Sonoma this weekend. It was one last trip we wanted to take with just the two of us, since I am officially due this month! We already did the olive oil tasting and vineyard thing back here, so this time we went with a more historical focus, included Sonoma and Glen Ellen this time, and plenty of good food too.

We started at Napa Valley Biscuits, which opened last year and was featured in this month's Sunset magazine.

The place was hopping on a Saturday morning, and for good reason. Everything we had was delicious, and what we saw that we didn't get, we wanted to return and order next time. We split the Yardbird (biscuit, fried chicken, bacon, and gravy):

and the Pappy (crispy waffles, fried chicken, bacon, red pepper jelly, and maple syrup for dipping):

When we come back, we would love to try some of the other menu items like homemade cinnamon rolls and a from-scratch twist on a ding dong. On to Oxbow market, which was looking lovely and had a Farmer's Market in the parking lot (where we bought the sweetest Sugartime peaches and apriums to take home).

Also, we wanted to try the famous English muffins at Model Bakery. They are supposed to be the world's best, and we plan to see how they taste tomorrow at breakfast.

The Fatted Calf, because my husband can't resist artisan cured meats:

From there, we took off for Sonoma through the vineyards:

Once we arrived, we started by visiting the Sonoma Mission, the most northern of all the missions in California:

In the garden, they had this prickly pear bush. The fruits didn't look very prickly but I discovered that they in fact are covered in little tiny, microscopic thorns. Look, don't touch, people!

Then we walked to what had sounded like a nearby historical site, the Vallejo House, but which turned into a 2-mile trek in blistering heat. I recommend driving there, especially if you happen to be 8 months pregnant. No pictures because I was too focused on not getting heat stroke, but after my husband rescued me by fetching the car to retrieve me, and reviving me with ice water and AC, we moved on to our next destination: Jack London State Park in Glen Ellen.

I remember reading "To Build a Fire" in school, and of course I'd heard of "Call of the Wild" and "White Fang", but I didn't know much about Jack London before today. Turns out, Jack London was quite an interesting and ambitious character, his life colorful and thrilling, though brief. After reaching commercial success through his writing of adventure books and short stories, he bought over 100 acres of land in Glen Ellen, including this old winery building:

Besides using the cottage next door as a country escape from city life in his hometown of Oakland, London sought to create a self-sustaining agricultural model here, including terraced vineyards, pigs, horses, cattle, winery, blacksmith shop, you name it! Here are some of the grounds of his old property today:

We also got to tour the cottage where he died of kidney failure at the age of 40. He had picked up a tropical disease while sailing the South Pacific islands (cause that's how he rolled) and used mercury to treat it, which destroyed his kidneys. His heavy drinking and smoking didn't help either. But he certainly had an impressive life, and it was fascinating to learn more about him at this park.

Hungry after hiking around all of these sites, we returned to Sonoma for an early dinner at the famous restaurant in Sonoma Plaza called The Girl and the Fig, where we ordered this amazing cheese and fruit platter:

I felt justified in ordering this wonderful sirloin burger with housemade pickles and aioli for the French fries. All that hiking, you know.

And for dessert, we split the vanilla bean profiteroles with bittersweet chocolate sauce.

Conclusion: Flawless food and great ambiance at the Girl and the Fig. It's acclaimed for a reason and I would love to return again.

With that, we returned home to take delightfully cold showers and ponder how trips will be different when there are three of us, and look forward to the day that we can share all of the wonderful culture and beauty of Northern California with our daughter.

Best Small Towns in Northern California

The town of Mendocino, California

I love it when travel magazines publish lists of the best small towns to visit, because exploring such towns is one of my most enjoyed past times. Yet it’s always disappointing when one of these tempting little towns turns out to be, say, in the Catskill Mountains of New York, or the heart of Montana. Like I’m going to travel all the way there to visit a remote village! I understand that a magazine must appeal to a wide geographical range of readers.

But, since most of my readers are in the West, and more particularly concentrated in Northern California (and those who aren't hopefully intend to visit me soon!), I will share my personal list of best small towns to visit. In no particular order, they are:

1) Mendocino: With gorgeous views of the coast, this former hippie colony has maintained the laid-back vibe, lovely architecture, and environmental consciousness that was present when it was first established. Mendocino boasts lots of B&B’s; more organic restaurants and stores than you know what to do with; Mendocino Jams, offering housemade jams, mustard and marmalades; and Gallery Bookstore, a wonderful independent establishment where the sun shines in through the multitude of ocean-framing windows, and the soft sound of waves crashing on the cliffs across the street lull you into a state of nirvana. I hope to spend my birthday here this year... (December 28th, people!) :-D

2) Sebastopol: Not on the coast but near enough that you can smell the salty fresh ocean in the breeze. Features utterly quirky stores, such as East West Café - completely organic, largely vegetarian and bohemian as all get out. I dare you to find one local eating there who wears makeup! There's also an adorable pie shop on the outskirts of town specializing in pies made from locally grown Gravenstein apples. (Apparently, Gravensteins are an endangered species of apple. Poor little guys. The local are trying to save them from extinction by feeding them to tourists.)

3) Sutter Creek: In Amador County, this is my favorite stop. With relatively affordable B&Bs, quirky home decor shops, loads of antique stores, and the ever wonderful Susan’s Place for lunch or dinner, this town makes a great weekend getaway.

4) Nevada City: A wonderful town where gorgeous Victorian-style houses still abundantly dot the local neighborhoods. Fantastic shopping, including Degroot’s Truffles and Desserts, where one may procure the most sinfully pleasureful chocolate truffles ever created by human hand. The truffles alone are worth the trek, but there’s also a great café for lunch and toy store that will entertain kids and adults alike.

5) Marysville: This town hosts the Peach Festival every summer. Grab some tri tip sandwiches, enjoy the local musician performances, snag a piece of fresh peach pie with peach ice cream, and don’t leave without a few bags of locally grown white and yellow peaches to eat or freeze for peach cobbler later! Also has a very unique specialized bookstore that made for fascinating browsing and a much-needed respite from the summer heat. If you head back to Sac-town, make sure to stop at Stephen’s Farmhouse for the ollalieberry pies, jams, and handmade crafts! (If you’re full from the peaches, they offer frozen pies.)

6) St. Helena: Perhaps the least pretentious town in the Napa area, St. Helena has some lower-key spas, creative cafes, local olive oil, a chocolate store that is the equivalent of Tiffany’s for chocolatiers, an awesome bakery, and of course the famous burgers from Taylors Automatic Refresher (featured on the Food Network’s "Drive Ins, Diners and Dives).

Any other ideas or suggestions? I’m itching to discover someplace new...