Big Sur: Check!

One thing I love about living in California is the repeated experience of discovering something new and wondering: "How have I lived in this state my whole life and never been here before?!" Such was the case in Big Sur.

We drove up from Southern California through Solvang, a Danish community that makes you feel like you're in the Old World. Great bakeries, especially if you like almond paste-filled pastries, which I do! The town also includes the Santa Ines mission, which we got to tour (below). Some day I hope to visit all the California missions!

Then we continued north to Big Sur, a place so beautiful, I couldn't believe that it was my first time visiting, especially since it's only about 3.5 hours from Sacramento.

We began our day at Pfeiffer Beach, the first place I have ever encountered purple sand. Check it out!

Then we hiked to a vista overlook of the breathtaking McWay Waterfall. Here was the clearest water I have ever seen on the California coast, and I couldn't stop taking pictures of it.

Finally, we ate lunch at Cafe Kevah and dinner at Nepenthe, two adjoining restaurants famous for their shared world-class view of the Big Sur coastline. For once, I neglected to take pictures of my food (although it was very, very good) in lieu of soaking in and photographing the view instead!

Bottom line: Big Sur should be on everyone's bucket list of places to see. As for me, I look forward to my next trip there!

Point Reyes Anniversary Trip

Despite being sick last week, we did not cancel our anniversary trip, but felt gratitude for having chosen a destination so close to home so that we could still enjoy it to some degree.

A little cottage in Point Reyes Station was our home for the weekend. A lovely welcome basket included local cheese and chickens from the hens on site, and organic McIntosh apples grown in the orchard our window looked out upon. We found a new favorite restaurant, Stellina, where we enjoyed a stellar lunch, followed by this amazing Raspberry-Pistachio Crisp with honey ice cream (using wonderful local ingredients).

Next up, we wanted to visit Bolinas, the hidden town famous for residents who took down the exit sign so often that there isn't one anymore. What impressed me about this small town was how giving, passionate, and trusting it could be, with a strong sense of community.

Observe: a room full of stuff free to anybody:

A beautiful art mural depicting the history of the town:

This is a farm stand on the edge of town full of beautiful produce. No one stands guard here - you can leave cash or mail a check. Now THAT is trusting!

And we couldn't resist a quick trip to San Francisco. Coming from this direction, I actually went over the Golden Gate Bridge for the first time. (Usually coming from my neck of the woods, we cross over the Bay Bridge).

We stuffed ourselves silly with Indian food...

And made a trip to the bakery Tartine, which I deem utterly deserving of all the praise and popularity it has garnered, a legitimate foodie destination. Their morning buns, tarts and bread pudding were all divine. (Morning bun below, about to be devoured.) We shall return!

Not pictured: Two picnics on the beach... Lovely!

Another Labor Day in Ashland, Oregon

We spent another Labor Day weekend in Ashland, Oregon this year (after enjoying it so much last time), and enjoyed some fine Shakespeare Festival delights. I always feel a rush when I first glimpse the Elizabethan stage. We saw "As You Like It" (and we liked it), "Troilus and Cressida" (based on "The Iliad", and I can see why it isn't performed much!), and "Henry V" (perhaps the Bard's most inspirational piece).

We also saw lovely vistas of the Rogue Valley:

And ever so many well-kept gardens, including many vegetable gardens and gorgeous flowers:

Of course, no trip would be complete without me picking out my favorite thing I ate. I loved this Rogue Cheese Sampler from Pasta Piatti, featuring local cheeses from Rogue Cheeses, served with crostini, and paired with roasted garlic and onion, fresh pear, red grapes, caper berries, olives, tomato/basil, and spiced walnuts. Whew! What a mouthful (pun intended)! We hardly needed dinner after polishing off this plate.

Now we have returned, well fed, well rested, and ready to take on the last dog days of summer. My tomatoes are starting to really ripen, but I'm already getting my fall seeds in. I also found this kind of extreme but also really cool book called "Food Not Lawns" in a little indie bookstore in Ashland. It's all about how to rid of useless huge lawn spaces and convert them into food-producing gardens. I'm all ears, sister!

Portland Markets

Today is the final installment of my 3-blog series on Portland, Oregon. We spent most of Saturday experiencing some of the best of the local markets. First up: Saturday Farmer's Market at Portland State University campus. The grounds themselves were green, gorgeous and park-like.

Behold, the food carts and booths! Here's a fellow who roasts and sells chili peppers. I saw avid fans nearby ripping open plastic bags filled with steaming, charred peppers and tearing into them on the spot.

Did you know that artichokes could flower? Apparently they can, quite beautifully!
Brussels sprouts still on the stalk - you can't get much fresher or more regal looking than that.
Burdock root, a rare market find. Unusual even for Portland, as you can tell by the description posted about how to cook and use it.
There were all sorts of interesting musicians, from slightly tone deaf guitarist/singers to a genuine circus act touring from the east coast to this lone didgeridoo player.
This kid was cool, just chilling at his parent's booth and giving out samples of tomato juice. This stuff was really tasty, fresh and sweet.
Here are some unique bouquets made of chilies! Edible bouquets, I like that idea!
Other fantastic finds that I didn't photograph: handmade salami and other charcuterie; lavender infused jams (the blueberry was undeniably good); and tons of fantastic artisan cheeses, many made with sheep and goats milk. We couldn't pack any cheese, sadly; but the jam and the salami were packed in our luggage and toted home.
The famous and always popular Pine State Biscuit had their typical long line going. We watched the assembly process for a bit, but after examining our already substantial selves, we decided that a dish involving biscuits, fried chicken, cheese, and bacon might not be the most prudent lunch after the heavy eating we had already done that weekend. My husband went with an Italian sausage sandwich with tender pepper and onion topping (I know, not much better, but he can get away with it somehow)...

And later, I opted for Salvador Molly's Chicken Tamale topped with fresh salsa.

From the Farmer's Market, we also visited the Craft Market by the Waterfront. My husband's favorite store was one that featured a lot of gag head ware such as the one he demonstrates below:
I bought a few Portland-like t-shirts with trees and such on them. We wandered along the Waterfront and enjoyed the beautiful fall weather....

Watched some locals play...

And had one last treat before we left town, from Portland's Original Elephant Ear cart. Native Northwesterners know that an elephant ear is a piece of dough that is fried and rolled in cinnamon sugar, or filled with things like chocolate or fruit filling. We went traditional with cinnamon sugar and enjoyed our treat as we said goodbye to the city of Portland!

Thanks for joining us on our journey through Portland! If you get a chance, I hope you go and love it as much as we did!

Portland Sights

Today's focus is on the best sights of Portland... including two of our favorite restaurants. But first, can I just say how much I love the architecture of the craftsman homes that constitute a large part of the city? Take the one below, for example, which is on the market in fact!
Or how about this beauty, smack dab in the middle of the Portland Saturday Farmer's Market?

Doesn't it blow your mind how well-made things were back in the day? Built to last, in style! If you like historic mansions or would like to check out the best view of the city, you must visit Pittock Mansion (below).

Set a top a mountain itself, the view from the beautifully manicured grounds of the mansion is exquisite, especially at this time of year.



Of course, the view indoors ain't too shabby neither! This was the family home of the original owner of the Oregonian newspaper, built around the early 1900's. It was intended to be practical rather than overly showy, but still - check out the music room.

Looking for peace and time to meditate? Try the Grotto, a Catholic sanctuary that offers all a quiet place to worship. The gardens were beautiful and contemplative...


And an elevator takes you to an upper level with a look out room featuring a replica of Michelangelo's Pieta sculpture...
And again, sweeping views of the city!

All this traveling to beautiful destinations had us pretty hungry when meal times came around. My best recommendation for lunch in Portland is an intimate little cafe called Petisco, where you will find delicious pan-European cuisine in a comfortable atmosphere.
Hello. I would like to introduce you to the best paninis I have ever met. One is prosciutto with fresh mozzarella, basil, balsamic and olive oil. The other is smoked pork with homemade mayonnaise, diced red onion and Manchego cheese. Both served with mixed greens and split because my husband and I wanted to enjoy both varieties. A wholly satisfying way to spend an afternoon.
And for dinner, please don't leave Portland without a trip to Screen Door, widely known as the best Southern food in the city. Excellent for brunch (where Praline Bacon Waffles and Bananas Foster French toast prompt most diners to toss their diets out the door) or dinner, you had better arrive early if you want to be seated promptly. By early, I mean before opening time. We arrived 15 minutes prior to dinner opening at 5:15pm and still were met with the following line of hungry locals:
But the wait was worth it. My husband ate the best burger he's ever had (his words, and the man has eaten a lot of burgers in his time!) and I enjoyed a traditional gumbo soup and Carolina pulled pork sandwich.
Mmm Mmm! That is some tasty eatin' there folks! Speaking of delicious food, tomorrow I will chronicle our exploration of Portland's amazing markets and their diverse, unique offerings!